When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.
This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.
The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.
The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.
Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
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